We landed at Fiumicino "DaVinci" airport. This one was slightly more stressful, trying to find the correct baggage terminals, and unlike landing in Paris, we were not VIPs, so our baggage did not come out first; it did come out, though, and it was fine. We also had no problem finding our driver, which was more convenient than in Paris, and the driver was much better than the French driver earlier in the day. He didn't speak much English, but he was a cheerful old guy. It is only 22 km to the Hotel Midas, where we stayed, so the commute wasn't long, but this gentleman got a tip. I did not know that it was owned by the Barcelo Group, but I was not surprised. I stayed at a Barcelo in Mexico, which was rather nice. So is the Midas. We were staying there, honestly, because it was easy. Our official tour group was starting here, so when we arrived a day early, staying in the same place was much easier than changing hotels. Midas is a hotel I would recommend. No, it isn't in the heart of Rome, and you will have to take a taxi to see the sights, but it is a nice, clean, modern hotel. The rooms are big, and you get a bathtub. Go ahead and judge all you want, but I think a nice soak after a long day is incredible, with bubbles optional. They have a pool, sadly, that is not in use as we were just slightly too early in the year for it. Supposedly, it wasn't warm enough out. I am from Canada, and it was plenty warm! There is a bar/restaurant in the basement. We had a snack there, I will get to that, but the food and service were good. You can get the breakfast included, and I will get to that, too, but it is worth it. Our patio overlooked the pool and the front view, though I am unsure if it would be as good. Of the seven places we stayed, this was the top three for sure. So we dropped our bags off, and my wife said, Let's go into the city! This is a big deal; I did not think she would say this. In general, she prefers structured outings with a plan. Getting the hotel to call a cab and head to town was a shock and a delightful night! This was the start of the best 24 hours on this trip. Last note on the hotel, the cab was roughly $25 euros to get to the heart of the city.
Driving in Rome is insane. We were told that everything works with a smile and a wave. I guess they have less road rage over there; if I piss someone off here and think a smile and a wave will fix it, I am certain I will get flipped the bird. People drive tiny cars, which I guess is better for crazy driving. Our hotel had called us a cab; the driver was female, which I hadn't seen before, but she drove like any other crazy man, weaving in and out. Honking at people. We went by the outside of Vatican City. Massive stone walls block any really good view into the Vatican. She drove down an alley that I thought was simply for walking, but people scattered out of the way, and she dropped us off just outside the Pantheon. If you are going to any attraction with a line, you need to get there early. I am guesstimating that it was 4ish in the afternoon, so we were not getting in. It was wall-to-wall people, even in the massive crowds, though I was happy. Had this been a grey day like Paris, I would have been annoyed. The sun was coming down, and it wasn't overly hot but very comfortable, somewhere between shorts and jean weather. Also, it was cobblestone, so make sure you have good shoes. The most annoying thing is the "vendors" again. They were more aggressive here. They have a trick where they clasp a bracelet onto a woman and then demand that they buy it. In general, we just ignored them, but one actually reached out and grabbed my wife. I had to tell him to piss off politely, of course. Even with that and being elbow-to-elbow with people, there is just something amazing about Rome.
There are little alleys from the main square where the Pantheon sits, and we wandered down a couple of them. My wife and I shop very differently. When she sees something she wants, she gets it, in case it isn't there later. I don't, I'll wait, and maybe I will see something better? This has bit me in the ass in Disneyland one time. I saw a shirt I wanted in a store, but I wanted to check the other million stores when I got back for it. It was gone. Now, since we were going on a countrywide tour, it would make sense to grab things as you saw them because you wouldn't be back, but then my mind goes. What if there is something better in Venice? I was very excited to see that city, and the point is that we shop very differently! My wife found a little leather shop, which was what she wanted. Her dad is a typical blue-collar guy and just wanted a nice belt. Her mom, a purse, genuine Italian leather, and my wife was all over it. Done half her shopping on the first night we are in Italy. The products were very nice, but it is the service that gets you! SO friendly and helpful. Try this; look at this. The measurements my wife had for a belt didn't seem right, so the shopkeeper grabbed a belt and put it around him and me. First off, wow, I did not expect to be in a belt with an Italian dude when I woke up that morning. It was funny as hell, though; to him, it was nothing. Second, he got the correct size belt with a few simple questions. We told them we were tourists, which was easy to see, and asked where a good place to eat was. I was going to say chain restaurants don't exist over there, but that is a lie. We did eat in one, but we were looking for an authentic experience. The old man, I assume they were husband and wife, had an idea for us. A few blocks away in Trastevere, he had two different friends who had places to eat. According to him, one was a little better than the other, so he found a scrap of paper and drew us a map. It might not seem like much, but I think it was super friendly. Across a bridge a few blocks down, past a pharmacy, and down an alley. Seems easy enough to follow. Sure, it helps a friend out, but it also gives tourists a great memory and a great meal. Ask someone in West Edmonton Mall where to eat, and they will half-ass tell you to maybe the food court, not some hidden gem of our city. So we followed the map; the first part was easy, and then we hit a pharmacy. It didn't seem like there was anywhere to eat, but a bit further up the road, there was a massive green cross which was the pharmacy sign, so we went up to that one; sure as shit, down the alley, there were a couple restaurants in the alley.
Picking which one to eat at was the trick. First, side by side, we had no idea which one he had sent us to and which one was better. We ended up at Alle Fratte Di Trastevere. I only know this because I took a pic of the menu. There is a little patio out front, maybe 3 or 4 tables. A canopy hung over it, and some green vines were on the walls; it was pretty inviting, but no one was at the door, so we went inside. I am going to guess a dozen tables inside. The building looked old, not decrepit, but like it had been there and cared for for many years. A guy sat at a table, having a drink and reading the paper. Again, I love it, not on his phone for news, but reading a newspaper. I asked if they were open, and he chuckled and said we could have wine, but the kitchen was still 20 minutes before we could order. That was perfect. We went back out onto the patio with our first glasses of wine in Rome! In freakin Italy! Admittedly, we were hungry, but our first dinner in Rome was outstanding. We started with bruschetta. Big, red, firm chunks of tomato with seasoning. Not like so many here, where it is doused in liquid. This wasn't tomato slop on bread but actual tomato! The mains were fantastic. I had veal and a side of veg. So the veal was tender and tasty, and the veggies, well, you get an actual plate full. Again, cooked enough, they were crisp, not mush. I loved it. My wife had to try the Cacio e Pepe. This is the classic dish; if you are in Rome, you must try it! It was mindblowing. First, just a couple of ingredients, but they are a perfect mix. I got lucky she couldn't finish it all, and I wouldn't let that go to waste! Then we just sat, had a bit more wine, and visited in the perfect Roman weather. I took one of my favorite pics of my wife while we sat and visited. She looked genuinely happy. When you travel, you will experience highs and lows. Stressful parts and pure happiness. This moment was the highlight of my trip, and it was when I knew I loved Rome. Then we had a small wander, looking for a cab back to our hotel. Thankfully, it wasn't actually that long, and we hopped in one. He didn't speak English well, but I showed him where we were headed on my phone. Then, paranoid me also put it in my Google Maps. My wife asked, is the volume off? We didn't want to be embarrassed, and I said, Of course, without checking. So Siri starts rambling about directions. Hurriedly, I turned the volume down, but he did go the exact route Siri wanted us to go. We got back to the hotel and soaked in the tub. That might have been the best sleep we had since leaving Canada. However, my only complaint about Midas is that the bed is hard! I didn't mind too much; I could sleep in almost anything, but my wife didn't like it, and when the tour started, everyone complained.
The next morning started like most mornings; my wife got ready, and I either read or wrote. By this time, I had started drinking the Nescafe instant coffee in the room; not my favorite, but it did the trick. It was 6 when we got up, just before 7, to eat breakfast in the restaurant. Traditionally, Romans have something sweet and a cappuccino. When I say something sweet, stuff that looks like a high-end donut here. I was happy we had a sort of "North American" breakfast. Some options of fruit, cheese, and meat, of course, but eggs and toast. Honestly, what your local Super 8 might serve for breakfast. We had a reasonably big day coming up, so it was nice to have a full belly. Someday, I would like to have a chill enough day to have a traditional breakfast, but busy days call for good breakfasts. Also, they had a coffee machine. Various options, but what they called an Americano was just black coffee, ready for cream and sugar, and damn, was I happy to see that!! Right after, we had the hotel call a cab and headed down to the Trevi fountain.
When traveling on your own, start things early! I have already written this, but you really have to do it. This day solidified it for me. The air was still slightly chilly even when the cab dropped us off. Not cold, I don't think they know cold there, but my wife wore a shawl-type thing. The cab cant drop you right at the fountain but pretty damn close. So when we got to the fountain, it was 7:50AM. A small video I recorded told me the time, and it was already starting to fill up. This is what I mean: come early. The Trevi is straight out of ancient Rome or a fantasy novel! The rock formations and statues around it are breathtaking. We were early enough that the sun was hitting it, making it look surreal. I assume it is the fountain part, keeping the water moving, that makes sure there isn't that stagnant water smell you get in some places. Also, there is no smell of cleaners or salt because of the open air. Just crystal clear waters and insanely beautiful statues. A person wants to drink out of it, or I wanted to, at least. When I say it looks like a fantasy novel, it seems like a cup from the fountain would heal all wounds; it is just picturesque. Then came the photos. I took a couple with my phone and my wife with her camera. Pictures are a big thing for her; she has a high-end camera, and I call her my shutterbug on every trip we go on. I hate the bill to develop the hundreds or thousands of pictures she takes, but they look great. So another couple approached us, they also had a nice camera and asked if we could swap. They would take our picture with our camera, and we would take theirs. I hate to admit it, but there was that 10 seconds of hesitation. Do you just hand some total randos a valuable camera? We did, and they got some great pics for us, and we did for them, but it is a sad state of the world, even in such a beautiful place, you have thoughts like that. Now pro tip for the Trevi if you are with the love of your life. Facing the fountain, go to the far right side. There is another smaller fountain that you can drink from. It is the lover's fountain. Legend says you drink from this with your lover, and you will both remain loyal and together forever. Not a ton of people go to it, so it is a neat little side thing that we did. I guess before men went to war, their ladies would bring them here with a brand new glass and give them a drink from it. Then smash the glass to seal the love. Don't just toss a coin, do something cool like this as well!
Our next stop was a tiny, busy coffee shop a few blocks away. We needed a washroom, and most places will happily let you use one, but you need to buy something. I have no problem with extra coffee in the AM. A couple of travel tips: We were told always to have a few extra tissues to use if a washroom doesn't have paper, and some places won't have toilet seats. In Italy, we never went anywhere that didn't have paper, but a few places didn't have seats. That is something to wrap your head around. This place was one of many shops on the road, but it was packed, and supposedly, busy places are the good places when you are not in the more touristy areas. I had a cappuccino and it was alright. I won't lie and say it was mind-blowing, but it was good. Then on to the Spanish steps.
The name is a giveaway as to what the steps are. It's a big ass staircase. Many lush and colorful flowers are laid out on it. Again, we were fairly early, and people were all ready filling it up. We did manage to get a few good pictures and then climb them. They are not steep by any means, but they are wide, and I can only imagine how full they can get as the day goes on. From the top of the stairs, you do get a great view of Rome. In fact, at that point, I thought it might be the best, but I was wrong. I will get to that! Also, there is a church at the top. If I had to guess, 1800s? It isn't modern, but it isn't old, or maybe it is built to look that way. You can walk up a side set of steps for a slightly better view of the city. I am not sure if you are supposed to, but we did because we had seen people up there looking around. When we went up, a lady came up, gave us an unhappy stare, and entered a locked door.
We went back to the Pantheon and actually snapped some selfies. Yes, super touristy, but it was fun. Also, not nearly as crazy as the afternoon before, no "vendors" out, and enough room to actually walk about. I would have liked to have gone in, but there was a line formed, and while we had some time, it wasn't enough to actually enjoy being in there. I hate to go into see something and not actually enjoy it, so we walked to a square not far where we were to meet our bike tour. We waited right beside Largo di Torre Argentina, also known as Area Sacra. To us, it was just some ruins that seemed to be filled with cats. Another place we could pay to go down and walk around, but honestly, I was being cheap; we could see it all from up there. Once I found out what it really was, I kind of wanted to go down. The man who took us on our bike tour explained what it was. They believe this was where a barely known historical figure named Julius Caesar was assassinated. When I go back, maybe I will pay to go on a tour there, it is kind of a big deal.
A short note on planning. We, my wife and I, clearly fall into what I call the planned adventure travellers. All that we did in Paris was because she had looked into it and booked it. The first night in Rome was just wandering, which was also excellent. However going ot the fountain and steps early was her planning. Booking the bike tour we were about to do was her planning. So, I have to admit that there is some wisdom in planning. I personally hate googling a place before I go. I want it all to be shocking, wonderful, and fresh, but I guess it still is. Even if you see a picture online, it usually doesn't do the place or activity justice. 100% it is a hump I have to get over, learn a bit before you go so you can have a good time. In fact, our tour guide got into the good kind of nothing, which I will get into, but it makes sense. Have something planned, or you may just waste a day doing nothing and enjoying nothing.
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